The second-to-last time I was in Chicago, I had the pleasure of popping in to Graham Elliot in the up-and-coming River North district.
Since I was, alas, dining alone, I grabbed a spot at the bar. All the movers and shakers started filtering in as I enjoyed a glass of Pinot Gris, one of my faves.
The decor is post-loft, all dark woods, frosted glass panels and muffled tones. The staff is professional and attentive.
As I scanned the menu, a couple of items jumped out at me: a lobster dog (that's a corn dog made with that delicious crustacean, instead of one of Chicago's most famous epicurean delights, the hot dog) and a caesar salad.
No ordinary caesar this. It was a culinary tour de force. A baby romaine head, sliced in two, drizzled with a piquant dressing with just enough anchovy to make it dance on the tongue (there were anchovies on top, too, but I set them aside), set atop a broiche twinkie -stuffed with marscapone cheese. For visual interest, the salad was decorated with a fresh, pesto-ish sauce, drizzled on the plate. Outstanding.
The lobster dog, I'm sure, is delightful, but mine was undercooked, so I sent it back. I couldn't fathom trying again, so I skipped my main course.
But I was still hungry, so I decided to try the panna cotta. Like many things here, this dish was deconstructed. Not to be affected, mind you, but so that the individual elements of the dish shine on their own before uniting on the fork and the palate. The berries were from Michigan - giant, round blackberries, blueberries and raspberries, and the mounts of berry-flavored cream delicious.
Another knockout from this Chicago chef who has given up the white tablecloth in favor of a trendy, accessible bistro. This is real, good food.
Until next time,
Frilly Goose
Graham Elliot
207 W. Huron St.
Chicago, IL
312-624-9975
www.grahamelliot.com
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